Salvatore Denaro – Il Bacco Felice

January 18th, 2011

Brian, Salvatore, and Maria Gabriella shelling fava beans at Il Bacco Felice

Photo by Nino Calamuneri

The Saveur 100, an annual listing where selected chefs share tips, secrets and their personal recommendations, features chef Sara Jenkins of New York City’s Porchetta. Sara takes this opportunity to acknowledge renowned chef Salvatore Denaro. She says that the “pure honesty of his food” is her biggest inspiration. Salvatore, Sicilian by birth and temperament, owned Il Bacco Felice (“Happy Bacchus”) in the central Umbrian town of Foligno until it closed last Spring. Almost every meal there is included among our most enjoyable and exciting culinary experiences.

His food is simple, but Salvatore isn’t – he is a big personality and you never knew what kind of evening was in store.  Maria arrived alone one night after traveling all day for a simple plate of pasta at a table for one.  Salvatore would have none of it and introduced her to a local family celebrating a birthday.  A place was set at their table and a friendship was born.

On any given night, Salvatore worked the dining room/kitchen/street outside proclaiming the virtues of the new variety of tomato that had ripened to its peak in his garden, the crate of incredible but little known wine he picked up that afternoon, the tangy sheep’s milk cheese he bought straight from the shepherd, etc.

Simple food done well – Spaghetti with tomato sauce and basil

From Great Plates

We miss Il Bacco Felice and there is a gaping hole in the Umbrian restaurant landscape without it.  Salvatore has maintained his association with the Arnaldo Caprai vineyard and hosts cooking classes there and in his travels.  We look forward to including him in our culinary itineraries in the future!  Sara’s take on Salvatore’s recipe for Spaghetti alla Norma is included in the Saveur article.

Sometimes dinner even ended with a ride home in Salvatore’s Fiat

Travel Specialist Summit – Day 1

January 12th, 2011
From Blog Photos

We are in Las Vegas for the Condé Nast Traveler Travel Specialist Summit – the annual meeting of Top Travel and Villa Specialists.  Brian spoke on a panel hosted by Wendy Perrin on using social media.  Italy del Giorno was featured in her “best practices” examples and an today’s article on the CNT website (www.truth.travel) mentions our post about the Festa dei Ceri in Gubbio.

January Newsletter

January 11th, 2011

Concierge in Umbria’s January Newsletter is available online.

La Festa dell’Epifania

January 6th, 2011
William II in Monreale, Sicily.  Not one of the 3 Magi but we like his royal bearing.

From Blog Photos

January 6 is a national holiday in Italy. It is the Epiphany, the 12th day of Christmas, which marks the arrival of the three kings at the manger of Jesus. In addition to attending Mass, many families also mark La Festa dell’Epifania with a more secular observation – the visit of La Befana on the eve of the Epiphany. La Befana is an old crone, woman, or witch, depending upon different versions of the tale, who brings children candy and fruit on the evening of January 5. The tradition of La Befana may actually predate Christianity, as it is believed to have derived from a pagan goddess or oracle that Romans sought for guidance and gifts at the start of each new year. As the story evolved through Christian history, La Befana was said to be an old woman who encountered the three Kings on their way to visit the baby Jesus. The Kings invited her to join them, and she intended to do so, organizing figs and dates to bring to the baby as gifts. Either because she got lost or got distracted cleaning her house, she didn’t show up at the manger, but delivered the gifts to village children instead. She is often depicted with a broom and is said to sweep the kitchen when she leaves her gifts in the socks of children. This event marks the end of the Italian Christmas holiday.

From Blog Photos

Buon Natale!

December 22nd, 2010
From Blog Photos

Tanti Auguri di Buone Feste e Felice Anno Nuovo!

Warmest greetings of the season and all good things to you and yours in the New Year!

Sergio Franchi sings Buon Natale – Christmas time in Rome!

Photo of the Week – Firenze in White

December 20th, 2010
From Firenze Snow

Florence endured a significant snowfall over the weekend.  Florence tour guide, Elvira Politi, was there with her camera and took these great pictures.

From Firenze Snow
From Firenze Snow

The snow didn’t dampen the mood of these motorbikes!

Click here to see the full album of Elvira’s pictures.

Made any mistakes?

December 17th, 2010

On a recent flight from New York to Frankfurt, Lufthansa showed episodes of Modern Family, a series I had never seen.  I watched the 2009 Christmas episode, where Phil thinks his children are lying, punishes them by taking away Christmas, and then realizes that he was wrong and apologizes by explaining:

Let’s not get all worked up, I made a mistake….I made a mistake and people make mistakes….and they make up for those mistakes…by taking their family to ITALY!!

Of course Modern Family is now one of our favorite shows!

Fiddling around Cremona

December 14th, 2010
From Blog Photos

In listening to piles of Christmas music to make our recommendations of Italian songs and artists, our thoughts naturally turned to performing artists and musicians. But we can delve even deeper in acknowledging Italy’s contribution to music – the production of the instruments themselves! One of the most well known centers for violin making in the world is Cremona, in the northern Italian region of Lombardy. Cremona has a long and exciting history, documented from 400 BC. While it is surrounded by agriculture production and is of course known for cured meats, sweet torrone and mostarda di Cremona (very spicy relishes to accompany cheese and fruit), this hill town is home to over 50 artisan violin makers and the Stradivarius Museum.

From Blog Photos

In the 16th century, the Amati family began the tradition of violin making, with the first known violins of Andrea Amati dating to 1564. These violins created the groundwork later refined by Antonio Stradivari to create the gold standard for modern violins. Violin makers began flocking to Cremona to learn the craft from these masters, and as a result, Cremona became a violin capital of the world.

From People

One such artisan is Philippe Devanneaux, who came to Cremona from France as a very young man. Today, he has a shop in Cremona where he restores and makes new violins. Even if you don’t play the violin, it’s fascinating to see every aspect of his production, from selecting the trees and wood for the instruments, through the lengthy and intricate steps that lead to a finished instrument. When we bring interested travelers to his workshop, we finish the visit by having a professional violinist come in to demonstrate the instruments in the shop. You can also stop in at the Stradivarius Museum to see some of the antique violins there. A local music professor plays one or two of them daily for the public. A visit to Cremona can easily be included on an itinerary that might also feature Verona, Parma and Mantova.

Are you dreaming of a Bianco Natale?

December 10th, 2010

If you’ve ventured outside at all since Thanksgiving, you may already be tired of Christmas music!  Don’t despair – spice up your seasonal listening with some Italian singers and composers.  There are plenty of charming Italian songs of all genres that aren’t well known outside of Italy, as well as Italian singers interpreting American classics in their native language.

For opera lovers, one of our favorite Christmas albums bar none is Sergio Franchi’s Cuore di Natale – virtuosic singing of beautiful classic holiday favorites, as well as the more popular Buon Natale, a song about Christmas in Italy sung in English – vino in the glasses, pasta on the platters/ people that you love that’s all that really matters – you get the drift, very charming.

From Blog Photos

Adeste Fedeles and Tu scendi dalle stelle (You descend from the stars) have been recorded by both soprano Renata Tebaldi and Luciano Pavarotti and Mille cherubini in coro based on Shubert’s Wiegnelied is available by many different singers including Beniamino Gigli and Pavarotti.

From Blog Photos

There is a whole slew of “rat packish” popular singers like Nilla Pizzi with Buon Natale and White Christmas first in Italian accented English and then Italian;  Buon Natale a tutto il mondo by Domenico Modugno, the man who brought us VolareBuon natale all’italiana by Nicola Arigliano or Gloria Christian;  Buon Natale amore from  Renato Carusone and Ninna, nanna picoletta by Renato Rascel.  Tati Casoni singing Il valzer delle candele (Auld Lang Syne) is also a treat – doesn’t Walz of the candles just sound so much more… oh, just better!

Let us not forget the extraordinary Christmas albums of Frank Sinatra (of New Jersey with Sicilian father and Ligurian mother) or Dino Paul Crocetti of Steubenville, Ohio (otherwise known as Dean Martin whose parents were from Abruzzo) or Perry Como (Pittsburgh via parents from Abruzzo) and the great  Mario Lanza (Philadelphia with parents from Abruzzo and Molise).

Finally, if you have kids or you’ve been hitting the eggnog a little hard, Dominick the Christmas Donkey by Lou Monte is an excellent choice.  Santa may not need a Christmas donkey where you live but one comes in handy if you live in an Italian hilltown.

Buon Ascolto! (Happy listening)

A complete list of our recommendations (region of the artist’s birth):

Bianco Natale – Irene Grandi (Toscana) current Italian Pop/Rock star

Buon Natale – Nilla Pizzi (Emiglia-Romagna) there is also a recording of her singing White Christmas first in Italian accented English and then Italian.

Buon Natale – Sergio Franchi (Lombardia) – the whole album Cuore di Natale gets a lot of play in our house this time of year.

Buon Natale a tutto il mondo – Domenico Modugno (Puglia) from the man who brought us Volare.

Buon natale a all’italiana – Nicola Arigliano (Puglia) or Gloria Christian (Emiglia-Romana)

Natale mi portera’ - Nicola Arigliano

Buon natale amore – Renato Carusone (Campania)

Il valzer delle candele (auld lang syne) – Tati Casoni (Lombardia)

Ninna, nanna picoletta – Renato Rascel (Piemonte)

Adeste Fideles – the hymn may be of English origin but these Italians do it justice: Renata Tebaldi (Le Marche), Beniamo Gigli (Le Marche), Luciano Pavarotti (Emiglia-Romagna), or Franco Corelli (Le Marche)

Tu scendi dalle stelle – Renata Tebaldi, Pavarotti or also from the “I magi randagi” soundtrack/Ennio Morricone

Mille cherubini in coro based on Shubert’s Wiegnelied

Gesu’ Bambino – Pietro Yon (Piemonte) – look for Pavarotti with the Vienna Boys Choir

Astro del Ciel (Silent Night) – Andrea Bocelli (Toscana), he has a pleasant new Christmas album this year -  just don’t call him an opera singer, please.

PS – Italians have been in the Christmas music business for hundreds of years.  Below is a short list of Baroque and Renaissance compositions:

Giovanni Pierluigi da Palestrina (Lazio) – Motet -  Hodie Christus natus est and Messa – Hodie Christus natus est

Arcangelo Corelli (Emiglia-Romana) – Concerto grosso in g minor “fatto per la notte di natale” (written for Christmas Eve)

Francesco Manfredini (Toscana) – Concerto in C Op. 3 N. 12 Christmas Concerto

Antonio Vivaldi (Veneto) -  Concerto Il riposo, concerto per il Santissimo Natale

Alessandro Scarlatti (Sicilia) – Cantata pastorale per la nascita di Nostro Signore

Alessandro Stradella (Lazio) – Cantata per il Santissimo Natale

Giovanni Francesco Anerio (Umbria) – Nell’apparir del sempiterno sole

December Newsletter

December 10th, 2010

Concierge in Umbria’s December Newsletter is available online.