We are spoiled by living and eating out in Umbria. The restaurant food in Italy’s “Green Heart” may not be the most diverse in Italy, but it is among the country’s best for quality and value. This has of course contributed to our opinions of the restaurants in other regions. Over the years, we’ve developed fairly high expectations. So, hot on the heels of our Top 5 Day Trips, we present our:
Top 5 Dining Experiences of 2011
But first, some guidelines: 1) these are not our Top 5 restaurants in Italy, 2) only restaurants where we ate in 2011 are eligible, 3) we consider the entire experience, which includes the waitstaff , food, and our fellow diners – definitely not in that order!, 4) you will note that our Top 5 in this category consists of 6 plus honorable mentions – you can’t expect us to narrow it down to 5 can you?) 5) we strongly consider value when making our choice of where to eat, but that does not mean that meals have to be cheap, they just have to be worth it. For example, paying 4 euros for a panino with leathery prosciutto and wilted arugula at a train station is offensive and a rip–off; paying 10 times that for dinner with wine in a local trattoria can be the best food bargain in the world. Without further ado and in no particular order:
La Buca di Sant’Antonio, Lucca www.bucadisantantonio.it
On Valentine’s Day, we were in the Tuscan city of Lucca. In addition to being the hometown of Giacomo Puccini, Lucca is famous for its rich culinary heritage, and La Buca di Sant’Antonio has served as a benchmark for this tradition for over 200 years. The dining room is candlelit and cozy with copper pots and musical instruments hanging from the ceiling over a good mix of locals and other Italians. The food was hearty and warming – dishes like homemade pappardelle with rabbit sauce, a rich chicken liver paté, and lamb chops with baby artichokes deep fried in native olive oil. Perfect.
L’Alchimista Tenth Anniversary Bash www.montefalcowines.com
L’Alchimista in Montefalco, Umbria celebrated its tenth anniversary this year. We’ve been eating here for almost that long and were thrilled to join the celebration on the piazza. The evening seemed like somebody’s beautiful wedding, complete with live music and a gigantic buffet. Claudio, Patrizia and Cristina have created a culinary destination in one of Umbria’s extraordinary small towns. Complimenti!
Trattoria I’ Parione, Firenze www.parione.net
Sometimes the greatness of a dinner can be determined by with whom it is shared. We had good food and most importantly, a fantastic time at I’Parione with three of our Florence tour guides. The conversation was lively, interesting and covered centuries of Italian political and artistic history. The food and wine were both excellent and plentiful. Occasionally, I threaten Maria that I want to return to the restaurant business, mainly because when I worked as a cook I completely missed out on the “trattoria” concept – a casual place with great local food, good wine, and an energetic vibe. This is my idea of restaurant paradise and on this night I’ Parione’s pasta with wild boar sauce and Florentine steak fit the bill.
Il Buco, Sorrento www.ilbucoristorante.it
Since we spend most of our time in Italy in landlocked Umbria, research trips “al mare” are always welcome for the beach loving Maria Gabriella. For me, going al mare offers the benefit of seafood. Sorrento is a resort town, full of tourists both Italian and foreign, and I didn’t have high expectations for our meals. In destinations like Sorrento, I often find myself focused on avoiding eye contact with the wandering mandolin player, tuning out the table of Americans sitting nearby, or preoccupied that the price/quality ratio is completely skewed in the rip-off direction. It’s difficult to really relax and enjoy myself. While Il Buco has its fair share of American tourists and was among one of our most expensive meals of the year, it easily makes the list with a winning combination of high quality, interesting food and excellent service.
Drogheria della Rosa, Bologna www.drogheriadellarosa.it
We had lunch at Drogheria della Rosa in Bologna on a Saturday at the end of July. The city may as well have hung a “gone fishing” sign on the town gates as the city was practically deserted. Drogheria is a great trattoria in a city full of great trattorias. It fits a specific type of restaurant and restaurant owner that I’ve grown to really enjoy in Italy, places that are driven by the personality of its owner/chef. Emanuele Addone and his raspy voice are responsible for the cuisine and the eccentric character of the place. He’ll visit your table, sit for a glass of wine, talk about his ingredients/philosophy/opera singers he’s nourished – anything really. In fact, if I remember correctly, we had a discussion about Russian caviar. Why? Who knows but it was interesting.
We also had excellent pasta (Maria Gabriella says one of the best pasta dishes of her life!) . . .
. . . delicious beef, and moderately priced local wine.
Villa Roncalli, Foligno
We covered our fantastic late August dinner in an earlier post. If you’re in Umbria and have a free evening, you must make a reservation and sample Maria Luisa’s refined takes on traditional Umbrian recipes.
Honorable mentions:
Ristorante Alberto, Ischia www.albertoischia.it
Osteria dell’Oca, Mantova www.osteriadelloca.it
Outside Italy: Restaurant Schote in Essen, Germany www.restaurant-schote.de
Brian Dore | Concierge in Umbria
Condé Nast Traveler Top Travel Specialist: Italy
