Italy del Giorno

This is the first in a series of reviews, stories, or photos produced by young people in Italy.

Nelson Landers Barrette, age 12

Hotel Al Ponte Antico
A Review

Day 1
The Hotel Al Ponte Antico is located right on the Grand Canal, making it convenient for water taxi. As soon as we arrived from the airport we were made totally at home. The desk attendant said hello and introduced himself, but the owner, Matteo, quickly took over. He looked extremely familiar, and we realized he was Uncle Jack’s double. Matteo gave us an assurance that the staff were at our “full disposal” and then gave a quick overview of why Venice is great and of the hotel’s operations. Breakfast would be served from 7: 30 to 10:30, and the front desk would make arrangements for any of our needs. He then showed us to our room. We were pleasantly surprised with the size of the room. The bathroom is large, though being 5 foot 8 or shorter is required to stand in the tub. The TV is small, but discouraging us from watching is probably ok, as we only have 2 days in Venice. As I showered, Dad arranged for the hotel to grab us train tickets and a water taxi to pick up our lost luggage at the airport.

Dinner at Vini Da Gigio is superb, with tasty Venetian dishes that have been unchanged for hundreds of years. This Restaurant is now a Nelson Review Recommended Restaurant.   After day one, I wished they had given us more of a history of the hotel, because the building itself is extremely old and cool, but with no history it felt hollow. I intend to ask Matteo at some time. 9/10 after DAY ONE

Day 2
Day 2 began with me waking up and feeling groggy. After a quick shower, however, which I’ve discovered I like, we were served an amazing breakfast on a terrace overlooking the Grand Canal and Ponte di Rialto. We were shown a slightly lacking buffet, but the croissants were outrageous and the hot chocolate excellent. Next, Matteo came up to us and asked what sort of scrambled eggs we would be having. He presented a long list of extremely tasty sounding additions, such as asparagus, tomatoes, ham and cheese. I could not decide, so I had Mom’s choice of ham and cheese. It was amazingly good, though I found the apricot flavored orange juice ridiculous. After breakfast we went out and about in the city, seeing fascinating museums and stunning artifacts from before Christ. Returning to the hotel before lunch, Oliver, the front desk man, gave us a great choice for lunch at the Marco Polo Ristorante. The lasagna was amazing, and this is a Nelson Review Recommended Restaurant. At the end, the waiter presented Mom with a very nice beaded bracelet and Dad with il conto.  We then returned to the hotel before dinner, and Matteo was less then enamored with our choice of restaurant. The food at Ristornate La Fenice was excellent, however, and the seafood will receive the Nelson’s Fishy Friends Recognition. We returned to the hotel and had drinks served by Thomas, the hotel’s overnight operator. He was extremely nice, though he seemed to think Folignio a no good industrial city. All in all another smooth day, though I still have not inquired about the hotel’s history. 8 ½ /10 for DAY TWO

Day 3
I awoke feeling groggy again. I need that fresh Umbrian air. We are hopeful that we will be back to Venice, but for the morning we have things to finish up. First, we eat another outstanding breakfast, with the only change being a tomato and cheese omelet. We then took a great gondola ride, before having an annoying hassle with Bank of America. As we waited for our water taxi in the hotel, I learn the Turkish emissaries from the Sultans stayed here. Oliver, (seeing as Matteo had departed), then explained how from the 1600s onward, as Venetian-Ottoman relations soured, it was home to many important Venetian families. We are sad to leave as the water taxi comes, and we leave Venice for Folignio 15 minutes later. As day three was tragically short, I will not rate it.

Conclusion
The Hotel Ponte Antico is a great spot to be when visiting Venice. The rooms are massive for Europe, and the prices are reasonable. The staff is as friendly and knowledgeable as any, and, in Matteo’s case, their families have been working the hotel business for years. If the amazing history of the place were more readily available, business would soar, and it would increase the overall level of enjoyment. Also, the orange juice is apricot flavored, as is the croissant and the little pastry cakes that are available at breakfast. They have a pressing need to be inclusive of other palates.  

FINAL RATING:  8 ¾ /10

WONDERFUL

Only the Saints and a few tourists can be found in Rome in August

The summer vacation is in full swing here and the cities have been emptied of locals.  It seems that the national pastime (besides soccer and race cars) is seeing how many Italians can cram themselves onto a beach at one time.  We went where they’re not and spent a night in Rome.  We enjoyed the last night before vacation at one of our favorite Roman restaurants.  The bucatini were great, the fried zucchini flowers could not be beat, and the oxtail was tender and delicious.  The waiters were all in a good mood — must be the 3 weeks off before returning to work in September.  The heat was a bit stifling at our outside table but the gigantic slice of watermelon at the end of the meal really hit the spot. 

 . . . of Umbria.  I got the chance to make the drive up to the top of Mt. Subasio this week (I know I should be hiking it but the temperatures have been close to 100 and I’m going to save my ascent on foot for the fall).  Subasio is the mountain that dominates central Umbria and hosts both Assisi and Spello on its slopes.  The road to the top is dirt (strada biancha) but manageable even in my little Peugot sedan.  On top there are usually only sunbathers, hang gliders and, of course, cows and sheep.  The views are stunning and the air is cool.

Looking south towards Spoleto

The road sign indicates slippery when wet — well, yeah!

Could be western North Dakota?

East to the Adriatic