Archive for April, 2006

Musical Saturday

Sunday, April 16th, 2006

String Quartet in Perugia

The phone rang rather early this morning, our friend Fabiola announcing her intention to pass by to “salutarvi” – greet us and wish us a happy return to Perugia.  Maria bolted out of bed to tidy up the house and put on the café.  Fabiola adheres to an incredible standard of housekeeping and will not hesitate to point out things that need our attention or straighten them out herself when she drops by.  We were very pleased with ourselves for having purchased the Colomba Easter cake the day before, and we eagerly unwrapped it for slicing.  Of course, Fabiola didn’t accept any cake or coffee, but it is the offereing that counts, so we made a bella figura.  Our housekeeping must have been acceptable as well or maybe she has given up on us.  We worked at home for most of the day and headed into town in the evening for a concert of chamber music at the church of St. Agata in town.  On the way to the church, Brian paid a visit to the local barber for a beard trim and Maria visited our friend Donatella who runs a linen shop in town.  Donatella had a surprise for us, a gorgeous loaf of homemade Easter bread – the kind with pecorino inside about which we wrote before.   We were immensely happy that we stopped by!  The concert was lovely, excellent musicians and a good crowd – the only negative being the incredibly uncomfortable pews that were no doubt designed for teeny tiny medieval folk.  Maria was ecstatic to find our little feline friend Grigio (grey) waiting for us at home.  His family is away for Easter and we are looking after him.  He seems to have remembered from the summer that we are the surrogates when his own apartment is closed up!

Good Friday in Perugia

Saturday, April 15th, 2006

 

The start of the Via Crucis in Perugia

The bakeries and alimentari were bustling as people placed their Easter orders and stocked up for the holiday weekend.  After a quiet dinner at home of tortellini and torta di Pasqua (traditional Easter bread baked with chunks of pecorino cheese inside), Brian and I headed into town to see the Good Friday processions.  Every church has one, but we opted for the “biggie” at the duomo, San Lorenzo.  The cathedral is huge, with not much inside to distinguish itself artistically.  It is home to the Madonna’s “wedding ring” – actually more like a large bangle bracelet that is kept securely in a series of over a dozen locked boxes and trunks in one of the chapels. (Yes, we’ve seen it – it is brought out and displayed one day in July every year!) 

We arrived as the procession was beginning and we were handed candles and the program of hymns and choruses for the procession.  Thus we found ourselves among the several hundred making the Via Crucis (Stations of the Cross) throughout town.  Young men took turns leading the procession holding a simple wooden cross, accompanied by a cantor, various readers and a portable speaker system for the people reading the Passion.  We stopped at various landmarks, present and former churches along the route.  This night time candlelight procession through the historic medieval center was quite beautiful and impressive. 

By the 14th station, about 10:30, we were back in San Lorenzo and after a bit more singing, Brian and I assumed that the Good Friday observation was concluding.  This was not the case.  Doors banged loudly, various assistants scampered about and the officiant’s voice boomed through the mike “Spegnete le luci!”  The cathedral went pitch black and an Ennio Morricone score poured forth over the sound system.  Illuminated by two spotlights, a very realistic reenactment of the Passion was underway, complete with costumed Roman soldiers, an angry mob, disciples and Jesus.  Jesus was spat upon and whipped with ropes covered in red paint that left very realistic marks on his body.  He was then lashed to a beam of the cross which he carried along the length of the cathedral as he was mocked, spat upon and pushed by the Roman soldiers, falling down and restarting until he at last made his way to the end where the two thieves were already in position on their crosses in front of the altar.  Jesus was then crucified and the iron loops that he held looked incredibly realistic as he was raised into position.  We had never seen anything quite like this.  Various members of the audience sobbed and there were many children present – but Maria was the only one who went to sit for a time in the chairs along the far wall for a bit of relief.  The re-enactment ended with Jesus being lowered from the cross and a benedictory prayer for peace from the Bishop of Perugia.  As the costumed participants passed the collection basket, the crowd quietly filed out of the church.

The Passion re-enactment at San Lorenzo, Perugia

Poetry, Prose and Music

Friday, April 14th, 2006

Stefano at the piano

Who requested Liszt?!? 

After more work on the web site with Khalil in the morning, making hotel reservations and searching for La Scala and La Fenice tickets for clients, we had lunch at a pizzeria in town.  We worked more in the office throughout the afternoon, with a brief but very exuberant interruption from our next door neighbor, 5 year old Martina, who is on Pasqua (Easter) vacation for a few days.  At eight o’clock, we met our friend and pianist Stefano Ragni at Perugia’s landmark, the Fontana Maggiore.  He and his wife Maria invited us to join them at an Enoteca for dinner and an evening of music, poetry and prose readings.  That’s Stefano at the piano.  The small Enoteca off of the Piazza IV Novembre was packed with about 75 of Perugia’s literati, and we sat to a hearty dinner of pasta tonnarello with fresh mozzarella and basil, seared angus beef over potatoes and tiramisu accompanied by a selection of wines by the glass.  At about 11:00, our host and owner of a local bookstore opened the artistic portion of the evening with a reading from Alice in Wonderland, in Italian of course.  The theme of the evening was voyages.  Voyages of any kind – physical, spiritual, real and imagined.  Stefano played a number of selections throughout the evening including a very sweet 1920’s era Italian piano piece about a train and three pieces from Franz Liszt’s Years of Pilgrimage, Second Year, Italy.  We both liked the Liszt but, Il Pensieroso, The Thinker, after a Michelangelo sculpture, was a bit heavy – maybe too much marble?  Interspersed were readings from The Odyssey, The Inferno and various other European writers, including a Hungarian who wrote of a honeymoon voyage where the happy couple got separated at the rail junction in nearby Terontola.  The bride continued her journey to Rome, while the groom ended up on the train to Perugia and was apparently better off for it.  The Dante was impressively memorized and interpreted by Alberto, but as neophyte Italian speakers, we found the Homer easier to understand.  We felt very special to be included in such a lovely private evening and I think that it is a memory we will cherish for quite some time.

Back to Work

Thursday, April 13th, 2006

Back to the business of Concierge in Umbria.  We retrieved our web designer from his cubbyhole in the center of Perugia and brought him out to our place to make some necessary changes to our web site.  We then drove 30 minutes to Spello for lunch with the incomparable Roberto at his Enoteca.  Maria also took the opportunity to post some letters that she had been carrying around in her purse since New York (Note:  don’t attempt to mail anything from JFK as all mail boxes have been removed.) 

It was a beautiful spring day and we sat outside on Spello’s main drag, chatting with the locals and enjoying a Tuscan chardonnay.  After making some arrangements for clients ordering wine from Roberto and discussing some visits to the Enoteca this summer, we drove to the Fongoli cantina to visit the family – especially Decio and Laura, the parents of Angelo and Simona.  It was wonderful to see them and also catch up with the youngest Fongolis,  Simona’s children Benedetta (6) and Giorgio (18 months) and Angelo’s daughter Ludovica (5) and the newest addition, Maddalena (6 months).  We nibbled on pieces of Colomba (traditional Veronese Easter cake with dried fruit), sipped the family’s celebrated Passito (red dessert wine), and then toured the cantina to see the changes that had been implemented over the winter.  Benedetta led the tour which consisted of the animated retelling of her exploits with Ludovica at various locations on the property.  The adults managed to squeeze in a little information about the new location of the barrels and restored farmhouse kitchen that is now a part of the shop.  From the second floor porch of the family’s home, we saw rain falling across the valley near Spoleto and headed back to Perugia, not before the storm caught up with us.

Arrival in Umbria

Wednesday, April 12th, 2006

One cannot underestimate the importance of the parruchiere, hair stylist, in Italian life and in keeping with the values of her second homeland, Maria headed immediately to Gianni at 9:30am – only after stopping briefly to say hello to the ceramics sellers from Deruta on the back steps of the Cathedral.  After stopping in to greet our favorite barrista and down a quick café, Brian headed to a local hotel to greet a couple from Vermont for whom we had made travel arrangements.  Brian then made the rounds of local friends and shopkeepers to catch up on local happenings during our six month absence.  Not much had transpired, except that one friend is moving his men’s clothing shop after 20 years a few feet down the road to a corner shop.  We stopped in at our local rosticieria where Mauro welcomed us warmly and assembled tins of his family’s delicious pasta, stuffed vegetables and roast meats for us to take home.  Although the temperature was moderate, we were freezing in our apartment – this is Umbria.  The stone buildings and farmhouses are charming but impossible to heat.  Hence almost everyone is dependent upon fireplaces and stoves.  We found some logs of wood that we had left over from the fall and enjoyed our dinner fireside.

Vinitaly III

Monday, April 10th, 2006

For the last time, we started the day with Monica’s heavenly breakfast, packed our things and headed off to the last day of Vinitaly.  We arrived just in time to enjoy a lunch of Umbrian specialties (cured meats, cheeses, rigatoni, bruschetta) in the region’s restaurant.  The region had liberally set the long tables with bottles of the Umbrian wines represented at the expo.  Although the repast was terrific, the best part of this meal was watching all of the winemakers “disinterestedly” taste each other’s production – molto divertente!  After lunch we disregarded the law and drove right on to the Piazza Signori to retrieve our luggage form the B&B, and hit the road for the 5 hour drive to Perugia.

Photo of the Week

Sunday, April 9th, 2006

Arena di Verona

Vinitaly II

Sunday, April 9th, 2006

We woke to what became one of the favorite aspects of our stay in Verona – breakfast.  Because we had decided to attend Vinitaly at the last minute, our accommodation options were extremely limited.  To Maria’s extreme relief, budget options were out of the question as the exhibitors had booked all of those early on.  She managed to find a sumptuous b & b composed of three rooms and a large apartment, occupying on the of city’s most beautiful historic palazzos on the celebrated Piazza Signori.  Of course, only the enormous grand apartment was available to us due to a last minute cancellation by an Englishman.  The apartment is impeccably furnished with Italian antiques, fine linens and mosaic floors – every detail had been attended to with painstaking attention.  There was a shower Jacuzzi and the bed is among the most comfortable on which we have slept; it was tempting to never leave it. But the best part was the arrival of Monica in the morning.  She would let herself into our outer rooms at 9:00 and prepare a lovely breakfast of café, fruit, toast, pastries and juice.  All ready for us on our dining table set with china and crisp white linen.  We could have gotten used to that!   

At Vinitaly, we spent some time in Tuscany with Salvatore Ferragamo’s vineyard, Il Borro.  We met the enologist there, who is named Gaetano.  As it turns out, his nonno (grandfather) was a basso profundo who had a career in the 1920’s and sang with Caruso.  We like to think that Gaetano was so named in honor of the composer Donizetti, who included many wonderful roles for basses in his operas.  This evening, we were the guests of the American wine distributor Charmer, for a dinner at Trattoria I Pompieri with the Italian wine makers that Charmer represents.  The vineyards at the table contributed a wine for each course of the dinner – finishing with the Fongoli passsito and grappa.

Simona and Angelo Fongoli at Vinitaly

Saturday, April 8th, 2006

Fongoli Stand Vinitaly

The Fongoli Brother/Sister Duo of Angelo and Simona at Vinitaly

Vinitaly I

Saturday, April 8th, 2006

Among the thousands of vineyards organized by region, we found the Umbria tent and spent the day with the Angelo and Simona Fongoli at their stand.  This is the first time that Fongoli has been to Vinitaly as an independent producer.  In the past their wines have been presented as part of the Montefalco consortium of Sagrantino producers.  Given the large number of producers and sales people, Vinitaly is surprisingly well orchestrated. 

We had a light lunch at the Umbrian agricultural products tent and were pleasantly surprised to run into our good friend Ettore – who offers cooking classes for small groups of our clients at his organic farm outside of Spoleto.  The Fongoli’s agent in Milano, Alberto – a Carabanieri by day – taking his vacation to attend Vinitaly, told us that a Canadian winery featuring Ice Wine was one of the exhibitors.  We decided that we had to try it and set off in search of the booth.  The wine was interesting – it is harvested in December when the grapes are frozen on the vine – but much sweeter than the Passito from Montefalco. 

That night we ate out with Simona and Angelo the heart of Verona at another osteria.  Maria and I made them come out with us because since their arrival in Verona they had eaten only at a restaurant that they had heard a great deal about but never tried – McDonalds!  They didn’t believe that it was possible to find a Veronese restaurant in centro without reservations, and we happily showed them that with persistence, it is possible!